SECTION 10: Straight Eave Sunroom Roof Installation
Note: Do not fasten the wall modules of the header beam until specified to do so.
Note: A temporary roof rafter or assistant may be used to support the front wall during this process.
10-1. Cutting and Placing the Header Beam
Once all the modules on the front wall are in place, use a level to make the front wall plumb. The header beam will arrive in stock lengths and will need to be cut to size. Measure the distance from end to end on top of the front wall modules and add 6-1/4 inches to this measurement. This will be the cut length for the electrical header beam, which should equal the length of the front wall bottom front wall bottom track. Cut header beam to length.
Note: the sunroom may have arrived with rafter stiffeners to allow for greater spans. These must be placed within the rafters prior to their installation.
Make sure that the front wall modules are plumb and level. Starting from the left side, determine the cut size for the first rafter by measuring from the backside of the roof attachment channel to the outside of the front wall beam just enough so that the exposed rafter ends can be covered with a "C" channel or gutter (Figure 10.1). Dual glass roof systems will come with a 4" gutter. Single glass roof systems will come with a "C" channel. The bottom edge of the roof or gutter should be sealed against the header beam.
Note: Do not attach the "C" channel or gutter yet.
10-3. Attaching the First Rafter
Place the first rafter into the roof attachment channel so that the outside of the rafter sits flush with the wall attachment channel and the front wall header beam (Figure 10.2). Fasten the rafter using tow #12 x 1" tek screws from the underside of the roof attachment channel, so that they attach into the grooved seas of the rafter. At the opposite end, fasten the rafter from the underside of the header beam using two #8 x 3/4" tek screw (figure 10.3).
Note: the subsequent rafters will need to be spaced 48-5/8" apart (for 48" glass roof bays) or 42-5/8" apart (for 48" glass roof bays) center to center. Make sure the subsequent rafters will be spaced correctly so that the outside final rafter sits flush with the outside of the header beam and the wall attachment channel.
Using the steps outlined in Section 9-2, cut the second and subsequent inside rafters to length. Place the second rafter into the roof attachment channel so that the pre-drilled holes line up with the grooved seams in the rafter. Fasten the rafter to the roof attachment channel using two #12 x 1" tek screws per rafter. Make sure the first and second rafters are 48-5/8" apart (for 48" bays) or 42-5/8" apart (for 42" bays) center to center and are parallel to each other. At the opposite end, side the first module inside the bottom track to the left (Figure 10.4) to gain access to the underside of the header beam where the second rafter will be attached. Fasten the rafter from the underside of the header beam using two #8 x 3/4" tek screws. repeat this process of sliding the modules and fastening the rafters until all of the rafters are in place.
You will be attaching the modules together by the utility mullions affixed on either end of each module. Be sure to mate a male and female utility mullion together for a proper fit. Make sure that the wall modules are fit snugly together and that the front wall is centered on the bottom tack. A sheet metal screw of Pop rivet will be needed every 24" to attach both sides of the utility mullion together (Figure 10.5). Fasteners should be placed to the inside of the utility mullion, thus allowing the fasteners to not be exposed. Vinyl Classing will be added on top of the utility mullion (on Omega rooms only) during the final details and clean-up Sections 17 of this Sunrooms-manual.
10-6. Fastening the Header Beam to the Wall Modules
Place two sheet metal screw at each utility mullion and electrical header beam junction (just like for the bottom track), using the screw guide lines on the header beam (Figure 10.6). Screws should be placed on the inside and outside of each junction.
10-7. Fastening the Wall Modules to the Bottom Track
The modules will be fastened with sheet metal screws at the base where the vertical mullions and bottom track intersect. Use the screw guide line in the bottom track to place the screws. Fasten two sheet metal screws per utility mullion connection at the base on the room's exterior (Figure 10.5).
10-8. Attaching the Solid to Glass Stiffener
The solid to glass stiffener is the transition piece that allows you to mate the solid and glass components of the sunroom roof. Beginning closest to the house wall, locate the position of the solid to glass stiffener on the C-Thru room layout sheet. A chalk line across the rafters may help line up all of the solid to glass stiffeners. Make sure the stiffener is perpendicular to the rafter, and bottom leg of the stiffener is lying flat on the inside leg of the rafter. Secure the solid to glass stiffeners with #8 x 3/4" tek screws though the pre-punched holes into the side of the rafters. Repeat this process in between all of the rafters.
10-9. Placing the Insulated Roof Panels (Solid to Glass Transition Only)
Note: All glass roof rooms require a minimum of 6" of solid roof at the roof attachment channel.
Note: The insulated roof panels have dissimilar materials on each side. make sure the aluminum side faces the sky.
The solid roof panels will fit between each set of rafters, in the space between the roof attachment channel and the solid to glass stiffener. Place a solid roof panel in between the first two rafters from the outside of the sunroom. CUrt this panel to the proper size, if necessary. Push the roof panel to the back of the roof attachment channel and lower it into place. Pull the roof panel slightly out of the attachment channel until it butts up against the solid to glass stiffener. Repeat this process in between each set of rafters. See Figure 10.7 for a profile view of the complete solid to glass transition.
10-10. Placing the glass to Glass Stiffeners and Drip Trays
Place a glass to glass stiffener and drip tray in between each set of rafters where every two panes of glass will meet together. Rest these components on the bottom legs of the rafters. Do not attach these components yet.
Note: These components cannot be placed in between the rafters once the glass is set into place.
10-11. Installing the First Course of Glass
See your C-Thru room layout for the proper glass size for each bay. You must also read the warning labels on each piece of glass to ensure it is glazed properly.
Starting closest to the house wall, place the first row of glass onto the rafters. The top edge of the glass should rest on the gasket of the solid to glass stiffener, approximately 1/2" to 3/4" from the solid roof panels. The side of the glass should rest on the gasket of the rafters. Repeat this step until all panes of glass have been placed. Make sure the panes of glass line up with each other across the entire roof.
10-12. Installing the Second and Subsequent Course of Glass
Place the second course of glass, making sure to leave a 1/2" - 3/4" gap between the first and second courses of glass. Repeat this process until all of the courses of glass have been placed.
Note: if the roof requires solid fill at the front edge of the roof, install the solid to glass stiffener as described in Section 10-8. Cut the solid roof panel as necessary and slide it into the opening.
10-13. Installing the Top Cap (Solid to Glass Transitions Only)
Remove the protective cover from the glazing tape and center the top cap in between the pane of glass and the solid roof panel. Make sure the top cap adheres to both the glass pane and the sold roof panel. Fasten the top cap from the inside of the room through the pre-drilled holes in the solid to glass stiffener. Use #8 x 5/8" (for single glass) or #8 x 1" (for dual glass) machine screws with washers with a dab of sealant on the tip of the screw. Cover the fastening channel with a section of beauty cap. Repeat this process in between all of the rafters on the solid to glass transitions. Make sure the top caps line up along the entire width of the sunroom.
10-14. Installing the Top Cap (Glass to glass Transitions Only)
Locate the top cap and remove the protective cover from the glazing tape. Form the top of the roof, center the top cap in between the two panes of glass and press it firmly into place. Make sure the top caps line up along the entire width of the sunroom.
10-15. Installing Glass to Glass Stiffener (Glass to Glass Transitions Only)
Locate the glass to glass stiffener that was placed in between the rafter in Section 10-10. The glass to glass stiffener will mate the two pieces of glass together. At one end of the sunroom, remove the protective cover from the glazing tape on the glass together. At one end of the sunroom, remove the protective cover from the glazing tape on the glass to glass stiffener and center the glass to glass stiffener in between both panes of glass from the inside of the sunroom. Make sure that each strip of glazing tape adheres to each pane of glass. Repeat this step on the opposite end of the sunroom. Using the edge of the stiffener as a guide to glass transitions are complete.
10-16. Fastening the Top Cap (Glass to Glass Transitions Only)
Fasten the top cap from the inside of the room through the pre-drilled holes in the glass to glass stiffener. Use #8 x 5/8" (for single glass) or #8 x 1" (for dual glass) machine screws with washers with a dan of sealant on the tip of the screw. Do not over-tighten the screws. Repeat process between all of the rafters on the glass to glass transitions.
10-17(a). Installing the Drip Tray (Glass to Glass Transitions Only)
Locate the drip tray that was placed in between the rafters in Section 10-10. Center the drip tray underneath the glass to glass stiffener, and allow it to rest on the bottom leg of each rafter. Fasten each end to each rafter using two #8 x 3/4" tek screws on the labs on the drip tray. Repeat this process across all of the rafters, making sure all of the drip trays are in a straight line.
Repeat this process for all of the glass to glass transitions in the sunroom roof. See Figure 10.8 for a profile view of the completed glass to glass transition.
10-17(b). Installing the Rafter Caps
Each rafter beam will be topped with a rafter cap. The outside ends of the first and last rafters will require a rafter balancer (Figure 10.9) Measure the length of the rafter to the attachment channel, then cut the rafter caps to length. Fasten the rafter caps to the rafter beams through the pre-drilled holes using #8 x 1/2" machine screws.
See Figure 10.8 for the completed solid to glass transition.
10.18. Sealing the Roof
To ensure a long, dry life of the room, run a fine bead of GE# 1200 silicone (not poly-urethane) along every seam in the roof. This small bead should encompass the vinyl bulb on the rafter caps and the insulated roof panels or glass, as well as the solid or glass transitions on the top caps. Press the silicone into each joint with your finger to ensure a watertight seal.
10-19. Shutter Installation
Your sunroom may have come with optional insulated shutters. The shutter rails will arrive preinstalled on the bottom of each sunroom rafter. The insulated shutters will come separately packaged. The shutters will be precut to the width of the roof bay. See the C-Thru lay out sheet for the correct dimensions of the shutters. To install the shutters into the rails, find the splice in the rail track. Remove a 4-foot section of shutter track by loosening the machine screws. Feed the insulated shutter into the rails, ensuring the shutter handle faces the front wall. Once the shutters are firmly in the shutter track, re-attach the shutter pole for Sunrooms-manually operating the shutters.
See Figure 10.9 for a profile view of the completed roof section.
